From the Gulf to the Heel: A Motorbike Odyssey from Nafpaktos to Bari
There’s something uniquely liberating about riding a motorcycle across countries—no filters, no barriers, just the road, the engine, and the world unfolding around you. My recent journey took me from Nafpaktos, a charming Greek town nestled on the Corinthian Gulf, all the way to Bari, the Adriatic gateway of southern Italy. What lay between was a ride through changing landscapes, cultures, coastlines, and time zones—a blend of ancient olive groves, mountain passes, seaside towns, and rustic Italian streets.
Greece: Nafpaktos to Igoumenitsa – Through Mountains and Myth
Leaving Nafpaktos, the road quickly begins to climb. You hug the northwestern edge of Greece, passing through Epirus, one of the country’s most rugged and underrated regions. The mountains here are raw, forested, and wild. The route winds through tight curves and long valleys, a paradise for any rider who enjoys the feel of the road beneath their tires.
Passing Arta, with its old Ottoman bridge, and skirting the edges of Amvrakikos Gulf, you’ll witness wetlands filled with birdlife and fishermen hauling their catch in time-worn boats. Then it’s on to Igoumenitsa, a busy ferry port surrounded by cypress-dotted hills and views across the Ionian Sea. It’s a logical (and scenic) jumping-off point for crossing into Italy.
Overnight on the Ionian Sea: Igoumenitsa to Brindisi
The ferry to Brindisi is an overnight passage—your bike secured below deck, the soft rumble of engines beneath as you watch the lights of Greece fade behind you. Waking up to the Italian coast at dawn is something else. The sun hits the ancient port city in just the right way, casting golden light over old forts and fishing harbors.
Southern Italy: Brindisi to Lecce and Taranto – Salento’s Heart
Italy’s Salento peninsula is flat but not featureless. Riding south to Lecce, you pass through low stone walls, dusty olive groves, and tiny villages where life moves slowly. Lecce itself is a baroque jewel—ornate buildings in honey-colored stone, small piazzas perfect for an espresso stop, and a surprising artsy vibe.
From Lecce, the ride curves westward to Taranto, a working-class port with roots deep in Magna Graecia. Taranto’s seafront offers a windswept beauty, and the old town has a decaying charm. Expect fishermen, old castles, and maybe a detour over the swing bridge to check out the naval base (with luck, you might spot dolphins in the harbor).
North to Bari: Olive Groves, Trulli, and the Adriatic
The last leg north to Bari follows the Apulian coast and inland plateaus. It’s a mix of coastal flats and gently rolling hills, often flanked by endless olive trees—some centuries old. Here you’ll find trulli houses with their conical roofs scattered in the fields, and if you have time, a detour to Alberobello is worth it.
Bari itself is both gritty and beautiful. The old town is a maze of alleyways full of life—grandmothers making orecchiette by hand, children playing, and Vespas buzzing past with nonchalant grace. I left my motorcycle here, waiting for the next chapter, and boarded a plane home with sun still on my skin and the road still in my ears.
